Rubiera: The Small Town with a Star-Studded Palate

Earning a Michelin star is one of the highest honors a restaurant can receive. For this reason, it is commonly believed that such prestigious culinary establishments can only be found in major cities. Then there’s the case of Rubiera, a small town of 14,000 inhabitants in the province of Reggio Emilia, where not one but two Michelin-starred gems of Emilian cuisine stand — not only within the same district, but directly facing each other.

Piazza Ventiquattro Maggio in Rubiera has thus become a true “homeland of taste,” a shining symbol of the Emilian gastronomic excellence that continues to expand.

InItaly immersed itself in this charming destination in the heart of the Emilian Po Valley and is delighted to tell the story of “Arnaldo – la Clinica Gastronomica” and “Osteria del Viandante.”

Arnaldo – La Clinica Gastronomica in Rubiera

In 1936, Arnaldo purchased an old inn that was frequently visited by doctors from the Policlinico of Modena — hence the ironic nickname “la clinica gastronomica” (“the gastronomic clinic”).

What was once a modest eatery has since become a temple of traditional Emilian cuisine. If time tends to stand still in places of true beauty and flavor, this is certainly one of those rare examples.

The restaurant is housed in a historic 15th-century building that originally served as a post station, complete with stables for horses and carriages, as well as rooms for pilgrims to rest and dine.

Honoring this rich past, Arnaldo has remained faithful to the ancient art of handmade fresh pasta, the ultimate emblem of Emilia’s culinary heritage. Guests staying overnight can enjoy breakfast beside the sfogline (pasta makers) skillfully folding tortellini and cappelletti — or catch the irresistible aroma of the traditional carrello dei bolliti (boiled meats trolley) long before lunchtime.

Despite its Michelin star, Arnaldo has preserved a rare authenticity — even in pricing: one can dine exquisitely for under 100 euros.

Osteria del Viandante

Cross the street, and right opposite Arnaldo you’ll find another culinary sanctuary — Osteria del Viandante, led by chef Jacopo Malpeli (born in Parma in 1982), the creative force behind its success.

Set in the picturesque village of Rubiera, the restaurant occupies a noble residence built within an ancient medieval fortress, blending classical elegance and refined design to enchant diners seeking an Emilian gastronomic journey. The setting features timeless frescoes, cascading chandeliers, and flower-filled terraces where guests can dine in the fresh breeze that sweeps from nearby Romagna.

This year, Osteria del Viandante celebrated its first Michelin star, a well-deserved recognition that crowns its dedication and artistry. Yet, despite its modern sophistication, the restaurant has never lost touch with its roots.

Its menu is deeply anchored in regional tradition, featuring dishes such as Cappelletti del Forte di Maria Pia in beef sauce and passatelli, a classic Romagna soup made with eggs, breadcrumbs, Parmesan (or formaggio di fossa), nutmeg, and lemon zest.

Alongside this timeless culinary heritage, Chef Malpeli adds a touch of innovation — a creative, gourmet approach that respects history while embracing the present.

In short, Rubiera embodies the essence of the Italy we love: a land of deep-rooted tradition and craftsmanship, capable of writing new and memorable chapters — even in a small town of just 14,000 souls.

Source: Vanity Fair