Scrippelle ‘mbusse – the dish that connects Abruzzo and France

Paper-thin crepes made with flour, water, and eggs, served plain but immersed in a warm, fragrant broth. These are scrippelle ‘mbusse, one of the signature dishes of Teramo’s cuisine, which at first glance may resemble French crêpes. And this is where one of the most fascinating culinary disputes between Italy and France begins: who copied whom? The rivalry between the two countries over culinary supremacy is long-standing and passionate.

The debate between Italians and French over who cooks better never ceases. And scrippelle, born almost by accident, seem to fit perfectly into this “fork war.”

Origins of the scrippelle

According to tradition, scrippelle were created in the early 19th century by Enrico Castorani, assistant to the chef who prepared meals for French officers stationed in Teramo. During a time of famine, tables were often set with black bread or cornbread, which the officers found unappealing. To please them, the French chef would replace it with thin crepes, considered more refined and palatable.

One day, however, an accident occurred: a tray of these crepes fell into a pot of chicken broth. Castorani, instead of discarding them, decided to serve them anyway. The result? An instant success. Thus, scrippelle ‘mbusse were born, and they have since become a staple of Teramo’s culinary tradition.

The secret is in the broth

The key element of this dish is the broth itself. Tradition calls for a light yet flavorful broth made from chicken and capon, carefully skimmed and strained. Some versions use a “mixed” broth made from both white meats and beef, making the dish even richer.

Italy vs. France: who came first?

Which came first—the chicken or the egg? It’s just as hard to determine whether crêpes or scrippelle were invented first. What’s certain is that the historical ties between Naples and Paris during the Bourbon era led to significant culinary exchanges, which also passed through cities like Teramo.

There’s no definitive answer to the mystery that has intrigued the people of Abruzzo for centuries and fueled their desire to claim the crespelle’s origin. What is clear is that while the two preparations are similar, the Abruzzese version has its own distinct character—and the choice to serve them in broth, turning them into a warm and comforting dish, is undoubtedly a winning one.

A dish that tells a story

Food is memory—it’s an essential and irreplaceable part of a country’s culture. Recipes are passed down from generation to generation. For the people of Abruzzo, scrippelle are just that: collective memory.

Today, they’re found both in homes—served on Sundays or holidays—and in traditional restaurants throughout the region, from Teramo to the heart of Abruzzo.

A dish born from a mistake, which over time became a tradition. We may never know whether crêpes owe something to scrippelle or vice versa, but one thing is certain: in Abruzzo, scrippelle ‘mbusse will always remain a symbol of identity and culinary pride.

Cover photo credits: Cammino Naturale dei Parchi