Ravenna in 48 Hours: A Journey through Mosaics, History and Flavours of Emilia-Romagna

Ravenna is one of those Italian jewels that every traveller should discover at least once in their lifetime. A capital city three times - of the Western Roman Empire, the Kingdom of the Ostrogoths, and the Byzantine Exarchate - this city safeguards an artistic and cultural heritage that leaves you speechless. Known throughout the world as the city of mosaics, Ravenna offers visitors the chance to take a journey through time, via eight monuments declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In just two days, you can completely immerse yourself in the magic of Ravenna, discovering not only its artistic treasures but also its vibrant contemporary life, its rich culinary tradition, and that unique atmosphere which distinguishes it. This itinerary is designed for those visiting the city for the first time, but it also contains interesting ideas for those already familiar with it who wish to discover its lesser-known corners.

Day 1 - The Historic Heart and the Principal Mosaics

Morning: Discovering the Paleochristian Jewels

Your exploration of Ravenna must begin in Piazza del Popolo, the city's fine drawing room. This square, the pulsating heart of Ravennate life since the Venetian period, welcomes you with its elegant architecture and lively atmosphere. Here you can admire the two Venetian columns bearing the city's patron saints, San Vitale and Sant'Apollinare, and the three palaces that mark its perimeter: the Palazzo Veneziano, the Palazzo del Governo, and the Palazzo dell'Orologio. It is the perfect place to get your bearings and start breathing the authentic essence of Ravenna.

Just a few minutes' walk from the square, the first masterpiece awaits: the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia. This small building, simple and austere in appearance on the outside, hides one of the most precious treasures of world art. Once you cross the threshold, you will find yourself immersed in an atmosphere of mystical beauty, with mosaics covering the walls and dome entirely. The starry sky of the central dome, with its 570 golden stars shining against an intense blue background, is an image that will remain forever impressed in your memory. The mosaics, dating from the 5th century, represent one of the finest examples of early Christian art to have reached us.

Continuing on your path, reach the Basilica of San Vitale, which stands majestically right next to the mausoleum. This basilica, consecrated in 548, represents one of the greatest examples of Byzantine art in the West. The octagonal architecture, the precious marbles, and above all the mosaics in the apse will leave you breathless. Here you can admire the famous panels of Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora, surrounded by their courtiers, absolute masterpieces of mosaic art that testify to the deep connection between Ravenna and Constantinople.

Complete the morning with a visit to the Archbishop's Museum, which houses another jewel: the Chapel of Sant'Andrea. This small private chapel, commissioned by Bishop Pietro II in the 5th century, represents the oldest surviving intact early Christian archiepiscopal oratory. Its mosaics, although small in size, are of extraordinary craftsmanship and symbolic richness, with the warrior Christ dominating the entrance vault and the figures of the evangelists and martyrs decorating the walls.

The Flavours of Romagnolo Tradition: lunch in the heart of the city

For lunch, it is recommended to experience authentic Ravennate life at Ca' de Vèn, an ancient wine bar-restaurant in the historic centre that will transport you back in time. This establishment, occupying the suggestive spaces of a 16th-century palace, is the perfect place to sample the typical products of the Romagnolo tradition. Here you can taste platters of local cured meats and cheeses, accompanied by exquisite, still-warm piadina romagnola, all washed down with excellent local wines.

If you prefer a quicker but equally authentic meal, look for one of the many piadina kiosks in the centre. The piadina, a veritable gastronomic symbol of Romagna, is prepared here according to ancient tradition and filled with high-quality local products. Don't miss the chance to also try crescione, a variant of the piadina that is filled and cooked on a griddle, a speciality unique to Ravenna.

Afternoon: Between Baptisteries and Theodoric Mosaics

The afternoon begins with a visit to the Neonian Baptistery, also known as the Orthodox Baptistery. This building, dating from the end of the 4th century, is the oldest of the Ravennate monuments and conserves in its dome an extraordinary mosaic depicting the baptism of Christ surrounded by the apostles. The composition, of exceptional balance and beauty, represents one of the masterpieces of late-antique art and will allow you to appreciate the evolution of Ravennate mosaic technique.

A short distance away, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo awaits you with its magnificent wall mosaics. Founded by Theodoric as a palatine church, the basilica preserves two imposing processions of martyrs and virgins that develop along the walls of the central nave. These mosaics, created in different periods, testify to the complex religious history of the city and the overlapping of different cultural and artistic influences.

If time allows and you are interested in discovering the contemporary face of Ravenna, dedicate an hour to exploring the street art in the neighbourhoods around the Darsena. This area, once the city's port heart, is today a lively cultural hub hosting numerous urban art interventions, creating a fascinating contrast with the city's historical heritage.

Dinner: Unforgettable Gastronomic Experiences

For dinner, L'Osteria del Tempo Perso is an excellent choice. This establishment, situated in the heart of the historic centre, combines the warm, welcoming atmosphere of a typical Romagnolo osteria with refined and creative cuisine. Here you can taste traditional dishes revisited with contemporary touches, always based on seasonal, high-quality ingredients.

An equally valid alternative is the Trattoria La Rustica, where the atmosphere is more informal but the quality of the cuisine remains excellent. Specialising in handmade pasta, this trattoria will allow you to taste real cappelletti romagnoli, prepared according to the traditional recipe and dressed with the house ragù.

Day 2 - Deeper Exploration and Surroundings

Morning: Among Arians and Ostrogoth Kings

The second day begins with a visit to the Arian Baptistery, built during the reign of Theodoric when the court followed the Arian doctrine. This baptistery, smaller than the Neonian but equally fascinating, conserves in its dome a mosaic depicting the baptism of Christ surrounded by the twelve apostles. The symbolism and style of this representation will offer you interesting points of comparison with the baptistery visited the previous day.

Then proceed towards the Mausoleum of Theodoric, located just outside the city walls. This imposing building, entirely constructed from blocks of Istrian stone, represents one of the most significant testimonies of late-antique funerary architecture. Its monolithic dome, 10 metres in diameter and weighing 230 tonnes, is a true engineering marvel for its time. The mausoleum, intended to hold the remains of the Ostrogoth king Theodoric, will impress you with its majesty and the atmosphere of mystery that surrounds it.

Complete the morning with a visit to the Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra, one of the most fascinating archaeological sites in Ravenna. Discovered by chance in 1993 during excavation work, this complex preserves the mosaic floors of a rich Byzantine domus from the 5th-6th centuries. Among the decorative motifs, the extraordinary "Dance of the Genii" stands out, a representation unique of its kind showing dancing figures of rare beauty and liveliness.

Lunch: Between Land and Sea

For lunch on the second day, if you love fish, we recommend Il Portolano, a trattoria that offers a typical Romagnolo seafood menu. Here you can sample specialities like passatelli in fish broth, cuttlefish with peas, or brodetto alla romagnola, always accompanied by local wines.

If you prefer to stay in the centre, take the opportunity to sample other piadina specialities in one of the many piadina kiosks you haven't tried yet. Each piadina kiosk has its own particularities and characteristic fillings, often local produce, making each tasting a unique experience.

Afternoon: Towards Classe and its Heritage

The afternoon of the second day is dedicated to visiting the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare in Classe, located about 5 kilometres from the city centre. This basilica, considered one of the most significant examples of early Christian architecture, will surprise you with its majesty and the luminosity of its interior spaces. The mosaics in the apse, with the large jewelled cross and the figure of Sant'Apollinare in a praying position, represent one of the peaks of Ravennate mosaic art.

Next to the basilica, don't miss the opportunity to visit the Classis Museum, set up in the spaces of a former sugar refinery. This modern museum guides you through the history of Ravenna and its port, from prehistory to the early Middle Ages, via archaeological finds, reconstructions, and multimedia installations. The exhibition path will help you contextualise everything you have seen in your two days of visiting.

If you visit Ravenna at certain times of the year, enquire about the possibility of participating in the "Mosaico di Notte" (Mosaic by Night) visits, which allow you to admire the monuments in an even more suggestive atmosphere, with light plays that enhance the beauty of the mosaics.

Return and Aperitivo: The Lively Darsena

Heading back towards the centre, treat yourself to an aperitivo break in the Darsena area. This neighbourhood, once the city's port area, is today one of the most vibrant and popular spots in Ravenna, especially at sunset. Here you will find numerous bars, brew pubs, and beer shops where you can enjoy an aperitivo accompanied by snacks from the Romagnolo tradition, immersing yourself in the young, dynamic atmosphere of this part of the city.

Dinner: The Grand Finale

For your last dinner in Ravenna, Corte Cabiria is an excellent choice. This restaurant, situated in a courtyard in the historic centre, combines the elegance of a refined establishment with the authenticity of Romagnolo cuisine. The atmosphere is suggestive and the menu offers both traditional dishes and more innovative creations.

If you prefer a more rustic and informal atmosphere, look for one of the many trattorias that offer the "menu del giorno", often based on fresh products from the market and grandmother's specialities. These establishments, less touristy, will offer you the opportunity to taste true home-style Romagnolo cooking, with dishes that vary according to the season and availability of ingredients.

Ravenna's Hidden Treasures

Beyond the main itinerary, Ravenna safeguards numerous lesser-known treasures that merit a visit if time allows. The Tomb of Dante Alighieri, located near the Basilica of San Francesco, is a place of great suggestion that holds the remains of the Supreme Poet, who died in exile in Ravenna in 1321. Next to the tomb, the Dante Museum offers an interesting journey through the life and work of Dante.

The Zone of Silence, which comprises the Quadrarco di Braccioforte and the ancient Franciscan cloister, is a corner of peace and recollection in the heart of the city, perfect for a restorative break during the day.

For lovers of contemporary art, the MAR - Museo d'Arte della città di Ravenna (Art Museum of the City of Ravenna) offers interesting temporary exhibitions and a permanent collection spanning from the 19th century to the present day, with particular attention to artistic movements that have dialogued with the city's mosaic tradition.

Practical Tips for Your Visit

To optimise your visit to Ravenna, we recommend purchasing the cumulative ticket which includes entry to five UNESCO monuments: the Basilica of San Vitale, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, the Basilica of Sant'Apollinare Nuovo, the Neonian Baptistery, and the Chapel of Sant'Andrea. This ticket, valid for seven days, will allow you to save money compared to buying individual tickets.

Ravenna is a city on a human scale, perfect for exploring on foot or by bicycle. Numerous bicycle rental points will offer you the chance to discover the city on two wheels, as the Ravennati have done for generations.

If you visit the city in summer, remember that the monuments can be very crowded in the middle hours of the day. Early afternoon is often the best time to visit the main sites with relative calm.

Ravenna: A Cohesion of History and Art

Ravenna is a city that knows how to surprise and conquer its visitors. In 48 intense but unforgettable hours, you will have the chance to discover its absolute masterpieces, taste its rich culinary tradition, and immerse yourself in its unique atmosphere, suspended between a glorious past and a vibrant present.

The mosaics of Ravenna, with their brilliant colours and spiritual depth, are not simply works of art to be admired, but experiences to be lived. They speak of centuries of history, of encounters between different cultures, of a search for beauty that transcends time. Let yourself be conquered by the magic of this city.