Matera in 48 hours: among the Sassi, the breath of ancient earth

Visiting Matera means immersing yourself in a unique atmosphere, one that reconciles wonder for a singular landscape with embracing the legacy of a bygone era. This is because Matera perpetually looks towards two periods facing entirely different directions: on one hand, we find the great tourist development born in recent decades from the enhancement of a UNESCO World Heritage Site (1993) which, with great managerial skill, aims to place refreshment spots, dedicated routes, and artisan workshops in every corner of the city; on the other hand, however, we find an almost existential distance of Matera's authentic core from everything that modernity implies, favoring instead a spirit of sacrifice, scarcity, and hardship crystallized in time.

This is why we propose a 48-hour itinerary where the first day focuses on a more historical-artistic visit, while the second day aims to highlight Matera's recreational and commercial attractions.

First Day: In the Sassi, the Breath of the Earth

Arriving in Matera by car (this means of transport is recommended), you can park in one of the designated lots in the modern part of the city (Matera Bassa), then proceed on foot to the historic center.

Upon arrival, you are immediately captivated by a nativity-scene-like atmosphere. The Town Hall and the first now deconsecrated churches significantly narrow the diameter of squares and streets, creating the typical complex of hard, claustral construction. Yet, it is the sun that makes the ancient buildings appear even more yellow, providing a clear impression of being in molded earth.

Of particular interest is the Church of San Francesco d'Assisi, located in the Rione Il Piano district, representing a perfect reconciliation between ancient and Baroque architecture. Built over the hypogeum dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, it stands out for its well-decorated façade, which marks the culmination of the arrival path to the historic center. The dark atmospheres of its interiors and the works of local artists make this place absolutely magnificent.

Continuing through the narrow alleyways of Matera's historic center, you can reach the Cathedral of the Madonna Bruna and Saint Eustace, situated at the top of a climb that showcases the grandeur of the Sassi and offers extraordinary spots for panoramic photos. The very square in front of Matera Cathedral is an authentic Belvedere. Inside the Cathedral, the beautiful fresco of the Madonna Bruna and the characteristic stone nativity scene are kept, evoking the typical atmospheres of the Sassi. This is certainly a stop not to be missed, also thanks to the adjacent Diocesan Museum.

After a more or less quick lunch, to be had in one of the many osterias, restaurants, or fast-food spots scattered throughout the center, you can finally descend into the Sassi of Matera. The choice, clearly indicated by signs, is between the Sasso Barisano, more modern and containing hotels and restaurants with absolutely unique settings, and the more authentic Sasso Caveoso, which has remained untouched by any form of modernization.

It is almost unnecessary to mention how evocative such a visit can be. Cave dwellings and rock churches, labyrinthine staircases, interlocking windows and homes, small recesses that almost function as panoramic balconies, and entire streets of stones and bricks warmed by the sun. The impression is of being in another dimension. For this reason, it is advisable to visit the Sassi with a tourist guide, who can explain customs, traditions, and stories.

You can end the day in one of the many restaurants in the Sasso Barisano sampling the excellent local cuisine.

Second Day: Between the Living Nativity and Christmas Villages

During this time of year, Matera shows one of its best faces, truly becoming an open-air nativity scene. It is no coincidence, in fact, that directors of the caliber of Pier Paolo Pasolini and Mel Gibson chose to set The Gospel According to St. Matthew and The Passion respectively right in Matera. Even more than the Holy Land, it is Matera that has maintained that hoped-for atmosphere common to the collective imagination.

It is in this vein that from December 6th to January 4th (on Saturdays and Sundays) the XV edition of the Living Nativity takes place, featuring evocative sacred theatrical performances right among the Sassi, with limited entrances aimed at promoting complete immersion in such a perfectly created atmosphere. This year's theme is seized by an appeal from Pope Leo XIV: And peace be it!

For adults, the entrance fee is 12 euros. For children between 6 and 10 years old, the cost is 5 euros. For under 5, admission is free.

The Matera Christmas Village is also particularly interesting. Between Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Via Luigi La Vista, just steps from the famous view of the city of Sassi, it will bring goodness and beauty with markets, shows, workshop activities and tastings.

Scheduled until December 28th, the event will be free and free to attend every day from 10:00 am to 10:00 pm, and from Friday to Sunday (and on holidays) from 10:00 am to midnight.

Organized by the Italia Eventi Association, in collaboration with the Matera Numismatic Circle, the Matera Christmas Village is sponsored by the Municipality of Matera and the UNOE National Union of Event Organizers. The active collaboration of many local associations is invaluable, and they have contributed to the construction of a calendar full of activities.