Pitti Uomo 109: New Directions in Menswear for Fall/Winter 2026–27

Florence returns to the global epicenter of international menswear. From January 13 to 16, 2026, Pitti Immagine Uomo 109 takes the stage—an edition that officially opens the Fall/Winter 2026–27 chapter and, true to tradition, goes beyond showcasing collections to capture the real state of global menswear. About 750 brands will gather at the Fortezza da Basso, nearly half of them international, for four days packed with business, vision, and exchange.

Pitti Uomo remains the industry’s most credible platform because it detects change before it solidifies into a full-fledged trend. This is where movements in emerging markets are observed, new consumer desires are measured, and the boundaries between formal and casual, heritage and experimentation, are redrawn.

Solid numbers, a global community

The figure is clear: around 47% of exhibitors come from abroad. A strong signal at a historically complex moment for the fashion system, confirming Pitti’s ability to attract top-tier buyers, international concept stores, and specialized press. Florence is not just a showcase, but a strategic observatory where supply meets an increasingly selective demand.

As Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, points out, the fair is built on constant listening—to designers, retailers, department stores, and diverse cultural and commercial sensibilities. It is from this granular observation that concrete opportunities take shape, especially at a time of profound transformation for menswear.

“Motion”: the theme that speaks to the present

The common thread running through the January 2026 shows is “Motion.” Not a slogan, but a cross-cutting concept that speaks of movement, change, and progression. For Pitti Immagine, movement is energy that concentrates and spreads: everything evolves, everything shifts, everything transforms.

The theme permeates the collections, the installations, the events program, and even the visual identity of the fair. The campaign, created by Chris Vidal and Tuomas Laitinen of SSAW, translates the concept into black-and-white images that capture fashion in a fragment of action, like a cinematic freeze-frame. The message is clear: menswear is not static—it is in constant flux.

The Fortezza da Basso as a narrative space

The spaces of the Fortezza become part of the story. Installations and special projects reshape the visitor experience, turning the fair into a true creative ecosystem.

Among the most anticipated interventions is Ancient/New Site by Marc Leschelier, a site-specific architecture that breaks traditional rules and engages in dialogue with the monumentality of the venue. The Futuro Maschile and Piano Attico sections are reimagined by DWA – Design Studio, with setups that emphasize research and innovation. HiBeauty also debuts—a section dedicated to niche perfumery—featuring ten independent European and Asian brands that blend fashion and lifestyle.

Five sections to read today’s menswear

Pitti Uomo 109 is structured like a large menswear department store, divided into five sections that respond to different market needs.

Fantastic Classic remains the heart of tailoring, where Made in Italy meets new interpretations of formality. Futuro Maschile explores contemporary menswear through innovative fabrics, international collaborations, and hybrid visions. Dynamic Attitude centers on sport and streetwear, with collections designed for an active lifestyle. Superstyling looks ahead with experimental silhouettes, genderless approaches, and new aesthetic codes. I Go Out brings together outdoor and lifestyle, offering functional and versatile garments.

Guest designers and runway events

The events program is one of the edition’s highlights. Three guest designers shine a spotlight on different yet complementary languages.

Hed Mayner brings his conceptual, architectural aesthetic to Florence with a runway show scheduled for Wednesday, January 14, reflecting on the relationship between structure and fluidity. On the same day, Shinyakozuka presents the Special Event in collaboration with the Japan Fashion Week Organization—a sartorial performance focused on form, proportion, and direct manual intervention on garments. Closing the calendar on Thursday, January 15, is Soshi Otsuki, winner of the 2025 LVMH Prize, with a runway event that blends Japanese rigor with Made in Italy influences.

Florence, once again the capital of menswear

Pitti Uomo 109 confirms Florence as the international hub of menswear. Four days in which menswear is not only shown, but analyzed, discussed, and projected forward. This is where we understand not just what we will wear in Fall/Winter 2026–27, but above all the direction in which the entire system is moving. And this time, the movement is clearer than ever.

Cover photo credits: Pitti Immagine