Sutera: the suspended balcony of Sicily

Nestled like a stone nativity scene on the slopes of Mount San Paolino, in the heart of inland Sicily, Sutera is one of the island’s most enchanting villages, included among the “Most Beautiful Villages in Italy” for its historical and landscape heritage.

The name “Sutera” has medieval Greek origins, probably deriving from Sotéra (accusative of Sotér, “savior”) in reference to the defensive role of the mountain and Byzantine fortifications, or from Sotéira, “she who saves,” an attribute of the goddess Artemis, whose cult is believed to have existed in the area. The history of the village dates back to the 7th century BC, with pre-Hellenic Sican burials. In the 6th century BC, Greek colonists from Gela may have consecrated the area of San Marco to the goddess Artemis. Between the 4th and 6th centuries AD, Basilian monks left rock frescoes in the same area. The Arabs founded the Rabato quarter in 860, followed by Norman and Swabian development (11th–13th centuries) with the Giardinello quarter. Sutera became an Aragonese fief in 1325, passing to the Chiaramonte and Moncada families. In 1398 it returned to the Crown of Sicily. In 1535 it was sold to Girolamo Bologna, but in 1560 the citizens financed its redemption.

What to see in Sutera

Sutera is a fascinating Sicilian village built around the gypsum cliff of Mount San Paolino, with a well-preserved medieval urban layout. The historic center is characterized by lava-stone alleys and clustered houses, blending old and new. The visit can begin at Piazza Sant’Agata, with its 15th-century church rich in artworks, including a Lombard marble statue of the Madonna delle Grazie and a painting by Mariano Rossi. Continuing along Via Roma, one finds the ruins of Palazzo Salamone, linked to the knight Francesco Salamone. Piazza Carmine is dominated by the Church of the Carmine, rebuilt in the 20th century on a structure dating back to 1185, with elements from a mosque. The nearby convent houses the Museum of Rural Civilization and a marble statue by Berrettaro.

The Arab quarter of Rabato preserves its original layout with narrow alleys and gypsum houses. Here stands the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, built over the ancient mosque. A staircase of 183 steps leads to Mount San Paolino, with its sanctuary and precious silver reliquary urns. Nearby, Byzantine frescoes by Basilian monks decorate the caves of San Marco, while religious legends surround places such as the “Split Rock.”

Culture, events, and traditions

In Sutera, religious and popular traditions mark the rhythm of the year. During Holy Week, the washing of the feet is celebrated and confraternities parade on Passion Friday. On the Tuesday after Easter, Saint Paolino is honored with a solemn procession of his silver reliquary from 1498. The first Sunday of August is dedicated to Saint Onofrio, with a nighttime torchlight procession and the evocative “procession of miracles.” In the first twenty days of August, the Agosto Suterese takes place, rich in cultural events. In September, Saint Francis is celebrated with the Pepper Festival. At Christmas, the Rabato hosts a Living Nativity with over 150 participants.

What to see around Sutera

Just a few kilometers away lies the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, one of the most famous archaeological sites in the Mediterranean, and the striking Castle of Mussomeli, perched on a rocky spur with a spectacular view of the valley. Also not to be missed are the abandoned sulfur mines near Campofranco and the Monte Conca Nature Reserve, ideal for trekking and lovers of unspoiled nature.

Cover photo credits: Municipality of Sutera – Author: Giuseppe Coniglio