Dolceacqua – The village that enchanted Monet: a gem of stone and wine in the Nervia Valley

A timeless village between mountains and sea

Nestled in the lush greenery of the Nervia Valley, just a few kilometers from the French border and the coast of Ventimiglia, Dolceacqua is one of the most captivating villages in Western Liguria. The Nervia stream runs through it, dividing the town into two souls: La Téra, the medieval core of stone houses climbing the slopes of Monte Rebuffao, and the more recent Borgo, spread across the opposite bank. Connecting them, like a suspended embrace through time, is the famous Romanesque humpback bridge, immortalized by Claude Monet in 1884, who called it “a jewel of lightness.”

History of a castle and a name as sweet as water

The origins of Dolceacqua are lost in the mists of time. Iron Age artifacts attest to the presence of the Intemelian Ligurians as early as the 4th century BCE, while the name may derive from the Latin Dulcis aqua or, according to some, from the ancient Celtic toponym Dussaga. In the 12th century, the Counts of Ventimiglia built the first nucleus of the Castle of Dolceacqua, a fortress meant to dominate the valley and protect the village below.

A few decades later, the powerful Genoese Doria family took possession, expanding the stronghold and ushering in a period of stability and prosperity that deeply shaped local history. Damaged during the War of Austrian Succession in 1744 and again by the 1887 earthquake, the castle is now fully restored and hosts exhibitions, concerts, and cultural events, becoming the very symbol of Dolceacqua.

A village of art, wine, and tradition

Walking through the narrow, shaded alleys of La Téra is like entering a stone labyrinth where time stands still. Among the caruggi, you’ll find craft shops, wine bars, and ancient taverns. From the Piazzetta dell’Armatore, decorated with a mosaic recalling the Doria and Grimaldi coats of arms, the path leads to the castle, while across the stream lies the 19th-century Borgo, with its shops and the Church of San Sebastiano, a refined example of Ligurian Baroque.

Art is at home here. Beyond Monet’s legacy, Dolceacqua boasts the Giovanni Morscio Art Gallery, dedicated to the local painter who donated his works and those of his contemporaries to the town. The Palazzo Doria Garoscio, a 17th-century noble residence, now houses the municipal library, historical archive, and the Miniature Soldier Museum, a curious journey through figurines and historical memory.

Cultural events abound: for over thirty years, summer in Dolceacqua has echoed with the sounds of “Musica nel Castello”, a festival dedicated to Italian songwriting and the memory of pharmacist Bigi, a historic figure of the Club Tenco. The village has also served as a film set, including for Luca Guadagnino’s Io sono l’amore and an entire episode of the comic series Dampyr.

The taste of Liguria in a glass of Rossese

If art made Dolceacqua famous worldwide, the land preserves its soul. This is the birthplace of Rossese di Dolceacqua DOC, a ruby-red wine with an intense aroma and velvety flavor, appreciated even by Napoleon Bonaparte. The vineyards that shape the surrounding hills tell a story of hard work and passion, as do the olive groves that produce excellent extra virgin olive oil.

Local specialties include michette, soft pastries tied to an ancient love legend, and fugasùn, a savory herb or tomato focaccia.

Nature and hospitality

Dolceacqua is not only history and culture—it’s also living nature. Hikers can follow trails to Monte Abellio or the Chapel of San Bernardo, while cyclists enjoy the path connecting the village to the sea of Ventimiglia. Visitors can stay in cozy B&Bs in the historic center, farmhouses among the vineyards, or charming homes carved into ancient stone buildings.

A village that continues to enchant

Awarded the Orange Flag by the Italian Touring Club, Dolceacqua is now a model of sustainable tourism in Liguria. Its image—the bridge, the castle, the houses reflected in the water—remains one of the most poetic postcards of Italy.

And perhaps what Monet wrote after painting it is still true:

“The place is superb; there is nothing more harmonious in beauty, light, and silence.”

photo credits fo viaggi.corriere.it