Aliano, the village that inspired Carlo Levi in his writing

Aliano, a small village in Basilicata, is located on a steep clay spur at an altitude of 498 metres, overlooking the Val d'Agri and the nearby stream. Its unique and striking landscape immediately captures the attention, with evocative views that seem almost suspended in time. The oldest part, the “borgo antico” (old village), is characterised by houses made of unfired clay bricks, which tell the story of local history and tradition. Aliano is surrounded by olive groves, citrus orchards and peach orchards, known as the “Gardens of Aliano”, which give the area a rural and poetic charm. It was in this setting that the writer Carlo Levi, who was confined here during the Fascist period, found inspiration for his famous novel Christ Stopped at Eboli. His house, which can now be visited, is located at the entrance to the village.

What to see in Aliano

Aliano, a small village in the province of Matera, is a unique place nestled in the picturesque badlands of the Val d'Agri. Famous for being the place of confinement of the writer Carlo Levi, author of Christ Stopped at Eboli, Aliano retains an unforgettable literary and natural charm. Strolling through the historic centre, you will encounter houses made of raw clay bricks and curious corners such as the “Casa con gli occhi” (House with Eyes), built to ward off the evil eye, and you can visit the Church of San Luigi Gonzaga, with its Baroque altar and Byzantine and Caravaggio-inspired paintings.

The village also offers a literary itinerary: Levi's House, the Carlo Levi Historical Museum, the Art Gallery and the writer's tomb in the village cemetery. Beneath his home is the Museum of Rural Life, which recounts local rural life. Don't miss the Aliano badlands, a surreal clay landscape formed by erosion, which can be visited via five trekking routes of varying difficulty, offering almost lunar landscapes and a deep connection with nature.

Nearby, the Madonna della Stella Sanctuary offers spectacular views of the hills, while events such as “La Luna e i Calanchi” (The Moon and the Badlands) celebrate local culture and landscape. Aliano is a village to be experienced slowly, amid history, literature and nature.

Events in Aliano

In Aliano, traditional events enliven the village and express its authentic spirit. During Carnival, the inhabitants wear the famous “maschere cornute” (horned masks), made by local artisans, parading along the picturesque road of the calanchi to the rhythm of accordions and the cupa cupa, a popular terracotta instrument. On 21 June, the patron saint's day of San Luigi Gonzaga is celebrated with religious ceremonies, music and food and wine festivals. In summer, the La Luna e i Calanchi Festival takes place, a cultural event dedicated to the landscape and soul of the village, with a recent winter edition from 29 December to 1 January 2025, featuring art, music and tradition.

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Photo credits  Michele !O-Zone" Pinassi - CC BY 2.5