Villalago, an oasis of peace

Villalago, the village among the waters. History, nature, and a truly unique Christmas nativity scene.

In the Abruzzo region near L’Aquila, 25 km south of Sulmona, lies an ancient village perched on the tip of Mount Argoneta: its name is Villalago.

The name Villalago derives from the spoken Latin Valle de Lacu, referring to the presence of nine lakes nearby, some of which have since dried up.

The village on the waters

Villalago overlooks the splendid emerald waters of Lake San Domenico and the fascinating Lake Scanno. A paradise for nature lovers, who can venture along the trails of the Sagittario Gorges Nature Reserve, admiring cliffs, waterfalls, streams, high rock faces, and springs.

Water is the defining element of Villalago: the view from the mullioned window of the hermitage of Prato Cardoso, where the wandering monk who founded the village once lived; the waters of Lake Scanno and Lake Pio; and those of the Sagittario, Giordano, and Sega rivers.

Not to be missed is the spectacular canyon carved by the erosion of the Sagittario River, rivaling the famous Gorges du Verdon in southern France, which attract thousands of tourists every year.

The Sagittario Gorges Nature Reserve, within the municipality of Villalago, is also an important WWF Oasis. Here it is easy to encounter deer, wolves, falcons, and even Marsican bears, a protected and endangered species.

The reserve covers about 450 hectares, ranging from 500 meters above sea level in the valley to 1,500 meters at Pizzo Marcello, bordering the Abruzzo National Park.

It is also recognized as the “D’Annunzio Literary Park.” Throughout the year, cultural programs are organized with readings, concerts, and theater events both in the historic center and along the gorges. Within the reserve, visitors can stroll through a botanical garden, visit a museum, or stop for a picnic. The oasis is open year-round with free admission.

The founder and Patron Saint of Villalago

It is said that the first true inhabitant of Villalago was a wandering hermit monk who, in search of peace, found it in a deep cave at Prato Cardoso, near the future village. The steep mountains and the wild flow of the Sagittario River still give the landscape a breathtaking beauty. That hermit was Saint Dominic Abbot (San Domenico Abate).

Legend has it that the Benedictine monk himself carved the cave where he lived in solitude around 1010 AD. Today, that cave is a destination for many pilgrimages and is the most representative site of Villalago. The hermitage rises on a hill like a gem set among rocks and emerald-green waters.

Saint Dominic Abbot called this place the “Hermitage of Saint Peter.” In 1017, by order of the Counts of Valva, he founded the monastery of San Pietro in Lago about a mile from the cave. Before leaving his hermitage, he had a small church built at the entrance of the cave.

The stone portal of the church, dating back to the 12th century, bears Byzantine-style decorations, but it is the mullioned window overlooking the lake—home to mallards, geese, and coots—that makes one think God had placed paradise on earth here. Today this site, together with Lake Pio, surrounded by oak and beech forests at the edge of the Abruzzo National Park, is a protected natural reserve.

Around Saint Dominic, patron of Villalago, many legends and traditions arose, especially linked to his miraculous power against venomous snake bites.

By tradition, three festivals in Villalago celebrate the patron saint:

• January 22: commemorates his death in Sora in 1031. On the eve and the feast day, large bonfires called Fanoglie are still lit in every district, burning late into the night.
• Easter Monday: celebrates the Translation of the Relics of the Saint, with the entire community gathering in prayer at the Hermitage, followed by the traditional Pasquetta picnic.
• August 22: marks the date of 1104, when Saint Dominic was canonized, and is the most solemn celebration. On the eve, pilgrims from Fornelli are welcomed in procession as they arrive on foot from the Hermitage. Until a few decades ago, the statue of the Saint was surrounded by snakes during the procession, a custom that ended with the disappearance of the last ciarmatari (snake charmers) of Villalago.

What to see in Villalago

A must-see is the Hermitage of San Domenico, reached by crossing a dam that connects the two shores of Lake San Domenico in the Sagittario Valley. On the small porch in front of the façade, overlooking the lake, four frescoes depict miracles of Saint Dominic. A door at the back leads to a steep stone staircase descending into the dark cave where the saint once lived.

Villalago’s historic center is also very characteristic, resembling a typical medieval village perched on a mountain, with narrow alleys, stairways, and terraces offering splendid views.

Within the village, visitors can admire artistic treasures such as the Lombard tower and the evocative medieval fortress. A distinctive feature of the place are the arches supporting stone houses with wooden beams. Along the streets, many stone coats of arms can be seen on doorways, depicting animals, flowers, and faces.

Also worth visiting is the Romanesque parish church, which houses a 1521 canvas of the Madonna of the Rosary and the altar of Saint Dominic, a precious 12th-century stone monument.

An unexpected Nativity scene

On December 26, Lake San Domenico hosts an underwater nativity scene. In this unique procession, six ceramic statues representing the main figures of the traditional nativity are carried on rafts and then submerged on the lakebed. All around, dozens of torches and candles illuminate the waters, creating a magical atmosphere that usually ends with a fireworks display.