Esanatoglia, the village among the hills with seven bell towers

Esanatoglia, one of the Most Beautiful Villages of Italy, rises among the hills of the Marche region along the Esino River, whose name derives from the Celtic god Esus. The original Roman settlement was called Aesa, while in the Middle Ages it was known as Santa Anatolia, in honor of the third‑century martyr. Since 1862, the two names have merged into Esanatoglia. Inhabited since the Paleolithic, the town experienced flourishing eras under the Malcavalca, the Ottoni, and the Da Varano. Its urban structure, more civic than rural in character, still preserves medieval traces in its walls, gates, and castles. Among its treasures are the Monastery of Sant’Angelo infra hostia and the Hermitage of San Cataldo, which watches over the village from the heights of Mount Corsegno.

The beauties of the village

Seen from above, Esanatoglia appears guarded by its seven bell towers, which mark the rhythm of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, the main axis that connects Porta Sant’Andrea to Porta Panicale, projecting towards the unspoiled valley of San Pietro. The village, enclosed by medieval walls and bordered by the Esino River, is arranged like a spindle, with side alleys leading to the districts, each with its own little square.

Among the architectural jewels stands the parish church of Santa Anatolia, with a magnificent fourteenth‑century portal and a Roman inscription at the base of the bell tower. Nearby, Palazzo Varano, today the Town Hall, preserves the painting The Expulsion of the Devils from Arezzo and frescoes depicting knights of the Da Varano family. In the former Church of San Francesco one can admire the frescoes of the “Master of Esanatoglia,” including a rare Madonna of the Milk.

Other highlights include the San Martino Fountains, a fourteenth‑century hydraulic masterpiece; the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena with Flemish works; and, just outside the village, the Church of Fontebianco, with early frescoes by Diotallevi di Angeluccio. In Piazza Cavour stand four historic palaces, including the Palazzo del Podestà and Palazzo Zampini, guardians of history and art.

The traditions of the village

In Esanatoglia, cuisine reflects tradition and simplicity. The local specialty is pork rind with beans, served with toasted crescia flatbread and potatoes in sauce. Dried legumes give life to tasty soups of chickpeas or beans, while handmade egg pasta is often paired with river crayfish sauces. The meal ends with favorite, dry anise‑flavored biscuits. For nature lovers, numerous marked trails cross the San Pietro valley, the Palazzo valley, and the slopes of Mount Corsegno, where the ancient Hermitage of San Cataldo stands.

Photo credits: italia.it