Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena: a window onto the Middle Ages in Val Neva

Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena is a Ligurian village dominated by the mountain of the same name (1,142 m) and characterised by its ancient medieval castle, built in the 11th century along the road connecting the coast to the Piedmont plains. Originally part of the Arduinic March, it passed to the Clavesana family and then to the Del Carretto family in 1326, becoming part of the Terziere del Finale. With the foundation of Zuccarello in 1248, the centre of the new marquisate, the village began a slow decline.

Between the 16th and 17th centuries, it was at the centre of sieges and disputes between the Del Carretto, Genoa and Savoy families, until the castle was partially destroyed in 1672. It subsequently belonged to the Genoese, the Austro-Piedmontese and finally to the Kingdom of Sardinia, following the historical events of Liguria.

The village, with its medieval layout, has retained its charm and memory despite the serious landslides of 1951-53, which led to the loss of many historic houses, leaving the imprint of its past intact.

What to see in Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena

Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena is the first and most evocative walled village in Val Neva, arranged in a ring around its imposing medieval castle, built by the Clavesana family in the 11th century along the ancient salt road. Later the residence of the Del Carretto family, the manor bears witness to the pride of this nobility, which was able to resist Savoy and Genoa. Today, thanks to the efforts of the family that owns it, the castle has been restored and lives on as a symbol of the village.

Climbing up the narrow streets, you will discover the harmony of the stone houses, tuff portals, terraced roofs and characteristic arched attics (vîsà), once used to dry figs and mushrooms. There are also communal ovens, anti-seismic arches and decorative details that reveal Alpine-Provençal influences. The singer-songwriter Björn Afzelius lived and composed within these walls.

Worth visiting are the Church of the Assumption, the Oratory of the Disciplinanti and the Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie with its splendid view of the terraced landscape. The picture is completed by the ancient rural farmhouses, a reminder of the farming past.

Events in the village

Every year on the first weekend of June, Il Paese dei Balocchi (Toyland) is held, offering a glimpse into the past of Castelvecchio, where the games of yesteryear take centre stage.

During the summer, Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena hosts the Festival Contrario, an unmissable summer event featuring music, theatre, cinema and food and wine experiences. The event continues until September.

In general, various types of village festivals, theatre festivals and music concerts keep the village lively. Throughout the year, there are also readings and debates aimed at enhancing and promoting the rural roots of Castelvecchio and discussing a sustainable future.

What to do around Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena

Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena offers excursions in the Poggio Grande environmental system, with marked trails leading from chestnut woods and olive groves to pastures and beech woods at 1,000 metres. Part of the Wine and Oil Route, the village is the starting point for eco-tourism itineraries that include the rocks of Rocca Barbena, the sources of the Bormida river and the picturesque ‘Ilaria trail’ towards Zuccarello. Also not to be missed are Toirano, Balestrino and, just 16 km away, the sea at Albenga.

Come and discover the charming village of Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena for yourself!

photo credits L.M.Pictures