Civita: the dying town

Civita di Bagnoregio is considered one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy, and every year it is visited by hundreds of thousands of people from all over the world who come to admire its timeless appearance and the magical atmosphere that can be felt while walking through its narrow alleys.

Civita di Bagnoregio is a magical, surreal, and fantastic place, perched on the top of a tuff hill and reachable only via a narrow pedestrian bridge from which one can enjoy one of the most spectacular views in the Lazio region.

The village, a hamlet of the municipality of Bagnoregio in the province of Viterbo, has been nicknamed “The Dying Town” because it rests on a tuff spur that, due to constant erosion, once risked slowly disappearing. Fortunately, thanks to important stabilization works on the cliff, Civita di Bagnoregio is slowly leaving behind its past as a “ghost village” and is gradually coming back to life.

The dying town lies in the heart of the Valley of the Calanchi, between the two valleys called Fossato del Rio Torbido and Fossato del Rio Chiaro, which once served as access routes from the Tiber Valley to Lake Bolsena.

The origins of Civita

The history of this small settlement dates back to the Etruscan era, when this mysterious people colonized much of central Italy, later becoming a lively civitas in Roman times. For centuries, the inhabitants of Civita had to fight against erosion and landslides that progressively reduced the historic center, creating new access routes such as the Bucaione, a tunnel dug directly into the sedimentary rock of the hill.

The current appearance of the village dates back to the late Middle Ages and has remained almost intact ever since, giving Civita the aura of a place where time has stood still.

During the Renaissance, Civita flourished, surpassing nearby Rota, with the construction of new palaces and the Cathedral. From the 15th century to today, however, the territory of Civita has literally shrunk due to 134 documented landslides. In 1695, an earthquake caused the collapse of the entire Carcere district, which connected Civita to Bagnoregio. Other major collapses occurred in 1764 and later centuries. Since 1965, Civita has been reachable only via a pedestrian viaduct. Today, only about ten people live there permanently.

The Etruscans themselves were aware of the seismic instability of the area and built works to protect it from earthquakes, diverting rivers and creating drainage channels. The Romans continued these works, but later neglect led to rapid degradation and eventual abandonment.

The tuff hill is constantly eroded by streams, rain, and wind. Slowly and inexorably, Civita is crumbling, and it is no coincidence that writer Bonaventura Tecchi called it “the dying town.”

How to reach Civita

Visiting Bagnoregio is one of the most exciting experiences in the Tuscia area. The beauty of its Civita makes this small town in Viterbo a sought-after destination for both Italian and international tourism.

Every year, more than 700,000 people come here to see up close this ancient beauty that defies time and erosion. All around lies the spectacular Valley of the Calanchi, shaped by wind and rain.

To reach Civita, you must first pass through the town of Bagnoregio, then continue to Via Bonaventura Tecchi, where you can park your car and proceed on foot across the long pedestrian bridge. Along the way, you can admire the statue dedicated to Civita, placed by the local administration.

Crossing the bridge, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of valleys and gullies carved by millennia of erosion, before arriving at Porta Santa Maria, today the only access to the village. Once there were five gates, but erosion and landslides made the others unusable. Porta Santa Maria is decorated with lions crushing human figures, symbolizing the people of Bagnoregio defeating tyrants.

Visitors must pay a small entrance fee (5 euros), which helps fund restoration and stabilization works to keep the village accessible.

What to see in Civita

Once inside, you’ll be enchanted by its timeless appearance, with medieval structures and narrow alleys climbing the hill like a labyrinth. The historic center itself is an attraction, but highlights include the Renaissance palaces of the Colesanti, Bocca, and Alemanni families.

Inside Palazzo degli Alemanni, you can visit the Geological and Landslide Museum, which illustrates the relationship between Civita and its fragile territory, with a focus on hydrogeological risks.

The urban layout centers on Piazza San Donato, where the main church stands, built on the site of an ancient Etruscan temple. The church is a fine example of 16th-century Viterbo architecture and houses a splendid Flemish wooden crucifix from the late 1500s.

Wandering through the alleys, you’ll find the Belvedere, a terrace overlooking the Calanchi valley, offering one of the most spectacular views in Lazio.

Other points of interest include the Antica Civitas Museum, housed in a private home, and the Cave of St. Bonaventure, an ancient chamber tomb carved into the cliff, named after the Franciscan friar Bonaventure of Bagnoregio (1217–1274), biographer of St. Francis of Assisi.

Local trattorias and taverns serve traditional Umbrian-Lazio dishes, and visitors will also notice the lively colony of cats, likely more numerous than the residents themselves.

Events

The beauty and uniqueness of Civita di Bagnoregio make it the perfect setting for special events.

On Good Friday, for the re-enactment of the Passion, the wooden statue of Christ from the Church of San Donato is carried in a moving procession from San Donato to the Cathedral of Bagnoregio.

On May 1st, it is tradition to spend the day walking among the calanchi (eroded gullies). On the first Sunday of June and again on the second Sunday of September, the Palio della Tonna takes place: a race of four bareback-ridden donkeys in the square in front of the church. On July 15th, the patron saint is celebrated. In October, the village is filled with the aroma of roasted chestnuts for the Chestnut Festival. At Christmas, Civita lights up with torches for the evocative Living Nativity.

Where to Eat

After a walk through history, there is nothing better than a regenerating break to savor the traditional dishes of the upper Tuscia Viterbese. In this, Civita di Bagnoregio is unbeatable! Wander through the hidden alleys and stop at one of the town’s restaurants—you won’t be disappointed. With panoramic views of the calanchi valley or the ancient buildings of Civita, each restaurant is unique and special.

Here are some of the best restaurants in Civita di Bagnoregio:

• Alma Civita – Via Civita snc – Tel. 0761 792415
• Arco del Gusto – Via Santa Maria del Cassero – Tel. 0761 792524
• Hostaria La Cantina – Via Madonna della Maestà 121 – Cell. 339 5886654
• Locanda dei Desideri – Via Santa Maria del Cassero – Cell. 348 0387815
• Trattoria Antico Forno – Via della Fraticella 4 – Tel. 0761 760016
• Wine Bar Profili DiVini – Via Civita Bonaventura – Cell. 327 2307304
• Bar Enoteca La Piazzetta – Via Porta S. Maria – Tel. +39 0761 780893

Access to Civita di Bagnoregio

Entrance to Civita di Bagnoregio is possible only with the purchase of a daily ticket. From the info point, visitors walk across the pedestrian bridge that connects to the “Dying Town,” crossing the evocative Valley of the Calanchi.

Visiting Civita di Bagnoregio is certainly one of the most exciting experiences in the Tuscia area. The beauty of its Civita, known as “the dying town,” makes this small municipality in Viterbo a sought-after destination for both national and international tourism.

Photo credit: Lavaligiadigio.it