Discovering Tramonti: a pearl of the Amalfi Coast

For the column In-giro per i Borghi, InItaly today presents a beautiful village that forms one of the wonderful valleys of the Lattari Mountains: Tramonti. As we can understand from the etymology of its name “intra montes ubertas”, Tramonti owes its name to its territorial configuration, being nestled among the mountains.

A land rich in vegetation, Tramonti is known for its terraced lemon groves, olive trees, and vineyards, and in the higher part, for its lush chestnut woods. Tramonti is also one of the most characteristic localities of the Amalfi Coast, both for its strategic position and for its division into thirteen hamlets: Pucara, Novella, Gete, Ponte, Campinola, Corsano, Cesarano, Pietre, Capitignano, Figlino, Paterno Sant’Arcangelo, Paterno Sant’Elia, and Polvica.

From its architectural heritage, we can see that Tramonti has undergone an ethnic and cultural evolution, shaped by the many peoples who inhabited it. The first were the Picentini, who, fleeing from the Romans, built the first settlements, giving birth to Tramonti.

It was one of the eight lands belonging to the Republic of Amalfi: the sailors of this village were generally referred to as “Amalfitan Sailors.” With the fall of the Republic to the Normans, the dark period of Amalfi and Tramonti began. Tramonti was caught up in the internal affairs of the Duchy of Amalfi and, during the conflict between the Angevins and the Aragonese, sided against Amalfi by supporting the Aragonese. This explains the long and tumultuous history of its architectural heritage.

Tramonti and its wonderful trails

The Path of the 13 Churches of Tramonti

To truly get to know Tramonti, one must walk along the famous Path of the 13 Churches. As the name suggests, this route allows you to discover the thirteen churches located in Tramonti’s hamlets. Besides visiting Tramonti, it is also useful for organizing a crossing towards nearby seaside towns (Maiori, Minori, Atrani, or Amalfi) or the beautiful Ravello.

Those who take trail 310 to visit Tramonti can start from any of its hamlets. One starting point is Pucara, where you can discover the Conservatory of San Giuseppe e Teresa, birthplace of the famous Tramonti liqueur made from the infusion of 15 herbs. Continuing, you encounter the Church of Sant’Erasmo, and further along the Vallone Sant’Antonio, the Church of San Bartolomeo Apostolo in Novella.

From Novella, you reach Gete, home to the ancient rock chapel dating back to the 8th century, and the Church of San Michele Arcangelo. The next hamlet is Ponte, with the Church of San Felice (1700). After crossing the Maiori-Chiunzi road, you reach Campinola, where you find the Church of San Giovanni Battista.

Still in Campinola, you can visit the Secret Garden of the Soul, a botanical-experimental garden with many plant varieties, including about 300 types of roses. Past Casa Laurom, you arrive at Corsano, where stands the only modern church, the Church of San Salvatore (1980).

Climbing Colle Santa Maria, once home to the Castle of Santa Maria La Nova, you reach the cemetery, then descend to Capitignano, where you find the Church of Santa Maria della Neve (late 16th century). Continuing to Pietre, you can visit the Church of San Felice di Tenna, rebuilt in 1700 after the 1688 earthquake.

The trail then leads to Figlino, named after the orphanage-hospital (brefotrofio) that housed illegitimate children (figlini) in the 8th–9th centuries. Here stands the Church of San Pietro (late 1500s–early 1600s). Next is Paterno Sant’Arcangelo, home to Tramonti’s oldest church, the Church of the Ascension (10th century).

Continuing, you reach Paterno Sant’Elia, with the Church of Sant’Elia (1500). From here, trail 315c branches off, connecting Tramonti to the coastal towns (Maiori, Minori, Atrani, Amalfi) and Ravello. The penultimate stop is Ferriera, named after its ancient paper mill powered by the Reginna Major river. Finally, the path returns to Pucara, the starting and ending point.

The Path of the Formichelle

The Path of the Formichelle, linking Tramonti to Maiori and Minori, takes its name from the women who once walked it. This trail runs through lemon groves and descends to the coast. The Formichelle were women who, carrying baskets weighing about 55 kg, walked in single file transporting freshly harvested lemons.

This was the most common job for women on the Amalfi Coast until the 1970s. A very hard, almost backbreaking task, yet carried out with surprising naturalness.

The path begins at Paterno Sant’Elia, near the Church of Sant’Elia, where it intersects with the Path of the 13 Churches (310 CAI). From here, it descends along Via Vitagliano, then follows a municipal trail, eventually reaching the Vallone Trapulico, identifiable by an ancient water channel carved into the rock. The route continues with a steep climb and then a pedestrian path leading to San Gineto (295 m). Here the Path of the Formichelle ends, intersecting with trail 315A. From this point, it is only about 20 minutes to reach the Path of the Lemons, which connects Minori to Maiori.

What can we visit in Tramonti?

Castle of Santa Maria la Nova One of the fortified constructions we encounter in Tramonti is the Castle of Santa Maria la Nova, built in 1457 by Raimondo Orsini, Prince of Salerno. This structure, originally featuring ten towers and seven bastions, included numerous apartments and stables. Inside stood the Church of Santa Maria la Nova. Today, only the remains survive, particularly of the defensive walls, which unfortunately cannot be visited.

Orsini Tower Also fascinating is the Orsini Tower, much loved by Totò for the chance to breathe pure air and enjoy the view of the valley.

Church of the Ascension The Church of the Ascension, located in Paterno Sant’Arcangelo, is very distinctive. Built in Romanesque style, it was closed in the 20th century and once housed many treasures that have since been lost. In recent years, it has been reopened for worship.

Rock Chapel of Gete In the hamlet of Gete stands the Chapel of Sant’Angelo, a unique example of rock architecture built inside a cave. The chapel, with a square plan, is divided into two naves of different sizes. The left nave is larger and houses the presbytery. The entire architectural space is shaped by the natural form of the cave. The façade, aligned with the cave’s entrance, consists of two irregular arches (corresponding to the two internal naves), largely open and fitted with wide windows.

The natural lighting is particularly striking, coming from the front windows and small side openings. Next to the remains of the Church of Sant’Angelo, which already existed in 1181 and was destroyed by a flood in 1735, one can admire the rock chapel dedicated to St. Michael, probably built over a previous pagan place of worship (a frequent occurrence).

The chapel has a square plan, divided into two naves and covered by ribbed cross vaults supported by a pillar and two columns. The structure is apsidal and was once decorated with a fresco of the Madonna delle Grazie. On the right, a small spiral chamber opens, covered by a dome decorated with river pebbles forming floral motifs; above it, another small chamber decorated with star-shaped motifs, believed by scholars to be a burial site.

Conservatory of Saints Joseph and Teresa No longer open to visitors, the Conservatory of Saints Joseph and Teresa in Pucara was built in the 18th century as a training place for the daughters of Neapolitan nobles. Later, between 1723 and 1900, it became a convent of the Sisters of St. Joseph and St. Teresa. It was here that the nuns first prepared the famous Concerto, a liqueur made from barley and aromatic herbs, typical of Tramonti.

Church of San Giovanni Battista The architectural complex of the Church of San Giovanni Battista is located in the rural hamlet of Campinola, in a predominantly mountainous and rural area with scattered houses. The church blends into its surroundings, consisting of a small cluster of houses overlooking the public road and the square in front.

The sacred building has a longitudinal structure, with two adjacent naves, apses but no transept, separated by a series of pillars supporting composite pilasters on both sides. Above runs an entablature, from which spring the two barrel vaults with lunettes that cover the naves, divided by round arches. The interior is richly decorated with Baroque stuccoes.

On the side portal of the counter-façade stands a fine painted wooden choir loft and an 18th-century organ. The gabled façade shows a combination of Baroque and Neoclassical elements and overlooks the main square. The complex also includes the sacristy, the Romanesque bell tower, the Oratory of the Holy Name of God, and other annexed rooms. Inside the church, one can admire a recently restored Neapolitan organ built by Carlo Rossi in 1729.

Church of San Pietro Apostolo In Figlino we find the beautiful Church of San Pietro Apostolo, which in the 18th century acquired a Baroque style that replaced its original Byzantine character. It was later enriched with a Capodimonte majolica floor and paintings by the artist Domenico Ferrara.

Curiosities

Basket Weaving Tramonti is famous throughout the Amalfi Coast for its baskets, made by weaving the supple branches of chestnut trees. Unfortunately, this noble craft is gradually disappearing due to the lack of artisans.

Culinary Art Tramonti, as a daughter of the Amalfi Coast, is renowned for its natural herbs and lemons. Thanks to these herbs, the Concerto liqueur was created in the old Conservatory of Saints Joseph and Teresa in Pucara, an infusion of herbs and spices first prepared by the nuns.

From the peel of the famous “sfusato” lemon comes Limoncello, known and appreciated worldwide. Also prized are chestnuts, vegetables, and especially the Fiascone tomato, an excellent variety for sauces and preserves.

So, set off for Tramonti and its beautiful hamlets to enjoy a unique experience in the heart of nature and good food. Enjoy your discovery of Tramonti!