The Santa Giulia Museum: a journey through desire, Manzoni, and the history of Brescia

In the heart of Brescia, within the ancient walls of a former Benedictine monastery, lies the Santa Giulia Museum — a place where history comes alive through a fascinating dialogue between Lombard kings, artistic masterpieces, and the evocative power of literature. More than just a museum, it is a monumental complex that narrates thousands of years of history, from the pre-Roman era to the Venetian age, while preserving an unbreakable bond with figures such as King Desiderius and Alessandro Manzoni.

The museum’s exhibition path begins in what was once the Monastery of San Salvatore, founded in 753 by the Lombard king Desiderius and his wife Ansa. This was not merely a center of spirituality, but also a hub of political and cultural power, destined to become one of the most important in Europe. The story of Desiderius, the last king of the Lombards, is steeped in ambition, alliances, and a dramatic defeat at the hands of Charlemagne. The monastery, and particularly the Church of San Salvatore, stands as an extraordinary testament to Lombard architecture, with its stucco decorations and frescoes revealing its artistic richness. Desiderius envisioned it as a mausoleum for his family, a tangible symbol of his authority and devotion. Walking through the naves and crypts, one can almost hear the echo of prayers and the whispers of political intrigue that once filled these sacred halls.

Manzoni and the Echo of Ermengarda: An Immortal Tragedy

Here, history intertwines with literature through the genius of Alessandro Manzoni. Though the great writer never visited Brescia, he was deeply inspired by the fate of Desiderius and, in particular, by the tragic story of his daughter Ermengarda. In his poetic drama Adelchi, Manzoni transforms Ermengarda into a central and deeply moving figure—a woman repudiated for political reasons, whose suffering becomes a timeless symbol of human destiny and the pain born of ambition and power.

With his historical and poetic sensitivity, Manzoni elevates Ermengarda’s story to a universal metaphor for human fragility. Although the events of the Adelchi did not take place in Brescia, the character remains inseparably linked to Desiderius’s lineage and, therefore, to the Monastery of San Salvatore. While the museum does not display artifacts directly connected to Manzoni, it evokes the historical context and figures that inspired his work, allowing visitors to gain a deeper appreciation of this literary tragedy.

Today, the Santa Giulia Museum offers a rich and multifaceted exhibition path. In addition to the Lombard heritage, visitors can admire Roman artifacts, including the imposing Winged Victory statue, recently restored and celebrated internationally. The Roman domus with their splendid mosaics, the Venetian-era exhibits, and collections of decorative arts further enrich the experience.

The Santa Giulia Museum is a crossroads of stories—a place where archaeology, art, and literature merge to tell the soul of Brescia, and more broadly, the complexity of European history. It invites visitors to rediscover the past, to be moved by the greatness and fragility of humanity, and to understand how distant events and figures continue to resonate deeply in our culture and sensibility.

Address: Via dei Musei, 81 b, Brescia

Opening hours:

• Monday: Closed
• Tuesday to Sunday: 10:00 – 18:15

Tickets:

• Full: €6.50
• Reduced: €5.50

Contacts:

• Phone: +39 030 817 4200

Website: www.bresciamusei.com

Cover photo credits: Fondazione Brescia Musei