Gino Sorbillo: how my pizza travelled from Via dei Tribunali to the whole world

On the occasion of World Pizza Day, we meet the man who transformed a humble disc of dough into a symbol of global excellence: Gino Sorbillo. Heir to one of the oldest families of pizzaioli in Naples, Gino is not only an artisan but a visionary entrepreneur who has carried the soul of Naples from the alleys of the historic center to Milan, New York, Tokyo, and Miami.

In an era where food has become media, Sorbillo has become the spokesperson for a cultural battle: the recognition of the Neapolitan Pizzaiolo Art as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Balancing strict respect for tradition with bold provocations that challenge purists, his mission remains unchanged: to defend and promote authentic Made in Italy.
We sat down with him to understand where the world’s most beloved dish is heading and how one remains an “artisan of the people” when becoming an international brand.

Gino, pizza was born as street food for the people, but today it has become perhaps the most powerful ambassador of Made in Italy worldwide. In your experience, what was the turning point that transformed this dish from a simple treat into a true gastronomic excellence recognized everywhere?

The turning point wasn’t sudden. I believe that over the last twenty years, awareness of pizza’s excellence and its power in our sector has grown significantly.

It has been a very long journey, one that began 300 years ago: after being mistreated and underestimated not only by haute cuisine but also by traditional cuisine, pizza has finally gained, in the last twenty years, the importance it holds today — and that continues to grow.

UNESCO recognition does not reward pizza itself, but rather the art of Neapolitan pizza making. In an increasingly automated and fast-paced world, how important is it to protect the gestures, craftsmanship, and knowledge passed down from generation to generation that make Neapolitan pizza stand out from all others?

In the past, pizza-making was passed down almost secretly: the master pizzaiolo taught this art only to those who sacrificed themselves alongside him. With the rise of social media, gastronomic congresses, and cooking shows, the entire food and wine sector benefited — especially baking, and above all, pizza.

People all over the world — not only in Naples, not only in Italy — were just waiting to finally learn the secrets of pizza. Social media doesn’t always spread positive content, but in this case, it proved perfect for spreading knowledge about pizza.

The bond between the Sorbillo family and Via dei Tribunali is visceral. Naples is a city full of incredible energy but also complex challenges. How do you manage to preserve the authenticity and identity of the Neapolitan alley now that your brand has international resonance, from Milan to New York?

With enthusiasm and energy, with optimism and liveliness, with grace and gastronomic education.

The latter may sound like a strange expression, but there must be education in the world of food and quality. Through deep reflection, I brought the beauty and goodness of Naples’ alleys to the most prestigious streets in the world — the part of the city I have always loved and will always carry in my heart.

Naples teaches countless forms of artistic expression around the world. In this case, I became a sort of “pizza animator,” making myself known also through my personality.

“Made in Italy” is the most loved — but also the most counterfeited — brand in the world. Some of your creations, like pineapple pizza, have been divisive. How do these “breaking” choices actually help defend true Italian identity?

These choices show that it took the skill and mastery of a Neapolitan pizzaiolo to redeem something that had previously been done poorly and without logic.

After making an uncountable number of pizzas around the world, I simply reflected as a Neapolitan pizzaiolo: the problem wasn’t the pineapple itself, but the combination of pineapple with tomato. So I removed the tomato and paired the pineapple with strong cheeses, excellent extra virgin olive oil, and freshly ground pepper added after baking.
And that’s how I demonstrated that even in the world of pizza, miracles happen!

Looking to the future, is there a risk that pizza will become too “gourmet,” drifting away from its popular roots? How do you innovate while staying faithful to the historical memory of the traditional “ruota di carro”?

I believe the pizza of the future will increasingly be a healthy pizza with strong nutritional value. The classic ruota di carro pizza will continue to exist, alongside many other shapes with different and even unusual doughs and toppings.

In general, I believe pizza will continue to grow stronger. I don’t say this because I’m a pizzaiolo, but because I truly think pizza is still at the beginning of its journey. In the past, too much time was wasted: the generosity of Neapolitan pizzaioli often led them to see themselves as last in line.

Since we pizzaioli — thanks also to training schools — have understood the social, gastronomic, and economic importance of pizza, its growth hasn’t stopped. It’s like driving a Ferrari: more and more interesting variations are emerging all over the world.

Thank you very much for being with us.

Cover photo credits: Gino Sorbillo Facebook page